A Wild Thyme

Walk with Wild Trails Wales

Bannau Brycheiniog

14 miles

750m ascent

Day 1

I met Nia and Bec, both wonderful women with passion and intriguing careers.

Nia is a Mountain Guide, Author and Bannau Brycheiniog Ambassador.

Bec is a Journalist, Author and Content Writer.

Nia gave us Nature cards that offered us insight and suggestions as to what we might focus on for the trip.

We set off around 12:30pm in the beaming sun from Craig Y Nos County Park, the ascent up Pwll Byfre started with a moderate incline, then walking around the track that hugged the side of the mountain, we admired the views below and tried to identify birds.

On the side of the mountain to our right there we noticed small Wimberries if we looked carefully. The uneven rocks of the narrow path proved to be heavy work for my feet but the view of an entire valley below kept them working to a steady pace.

Trekking on we came to a crossover of a larger path where we took a break. I chose to have my fruit and nut dairy milk bar as my first snack while Nia and Bec had their sandwiches, this was a mistake, I was to discover soon.

As we rested we observed 5 humans, 2 dogs, hundreds of sheep and a handful birds of prey and smaller bird species. A single Red Kite could be seen in the air soaring amongst the vastness of open, teal coloured sky, another bird of prey approached and attacked the Kite before reinforcements came, 2 Red Kites didn’t seem worth the trouble any more to the smaller bird of prey.

As we carried on up a slightly steeper ascent I felt a bit shaky and weak, the sugar drop from the sugary snack, if only I had eaten my sandwiches like Nia and Bec!

It was quickly rectified by eating a chicken and sweetcorn sandwich at the summit. With breathtaking views and a few bugs making themselves at home in our hair, we sat and chatted, learning more about each other.

Making our gentle descent towards Maen Llia we avoided boggy moorlands and terrain before looking for suitable land to set up a base camp. We found a tranquil spot which would protect us from the wind and had a small flowing river nearby for our water source. We thought it was tranquil until we saw 2 dead sheep right next to where we were about to pitch our tents. We took some time walking across the tufty high grass until we saw an equally tranquil piece of land near a small flowing river with no dead sheep in sight, perfect.

We were quick in our setting up of tents, we unpacked, made hot tea and listened to the trickling of the river, bliss, with the sun beaming on our backs, Nia and Bec made good use of their sunglasses however for some reason I didn’t get mine out, or my cap, another mistake! Throughout the day I had been taking regular swigs of my water to make sure I was well hydrated. Well, what I thought were swigs but were in fact big fat guzzles. By the time we had set up camp, I only had half of my water left. Water had never tasted so good. It felt like I was swallowing pure liquid lifeforce.

After we gobbled our hot packet food, I thought this would be a good time to do some drawing as the sun was setting.

Nia painted the flowing river running opposite from her with the ridges of the rocks either side.

Bec drew our triage of tents with an illuminating sky of stars.

I drew the mountain behind us that still had some edges highlighted by the sun’s beam.

The light died down and the insects rose up, signifying it was time to retreat to our tents for a good nights sleep.

Day 2

We woke up to a misty and dewy morning, with varying achy ailments. We all had achy muscles, just all in different places. It was slightly windy and slightly wet, but breakfast was calling in the form of porridge, oat bars and cooked breakfast in a packet.

We packed up our soggy houses and belongings before saying thank you and farewell to our camp and the surrounding sheep. We left base camp and set off on the cobbled stones of Sarn Helen Roman Road. We then walked on the main road for quite some time, a weird but welcome feeling when the soles of your feet have been battered from the uneven and rocky grounds. 

The rain was still on top of us but we were keen to take a detour to see a standing stone called Maen Madoc. At 10 feet tall and over 200 years old it stands just a couple of feet from the roman road. Nia told us there was an inscription on the stone somewhere so we traced with our fingers in an effort to find it.

Inscribed with Latin text it reads 'DERVAC(IVS) FILIVS IVSTI (H)IC IACIT' translating loosely to “Dervacus, Son of Justus lies here”.

Nia told us about the history of the land as our boots stumbled over the Roman Road. Her knowledge of the mountains, landscapes and historical buildings continued to amuse us in the drizzly weather.

Further down the road blackberries were in abundance, hesitant at first as I wasn’t sure if they were ready to eat but with a firm pinch, you could tell they were juicy. The rain had smothered the blackberries, making them burst with hydration and sweetness, a blessing evident by our purple stained hands.

As we walked up a slight ascent through grassland moors we were battered with rain. Raindrops falling so quickly that our eyelashes were continuously decorated with dew drops, this continued for quite some time until we found refuge in the remains of a historical ruin. The sheep didn’t seem to mind us and we even saw other hikers passing, little did I know that this would be our last break.

Nia told us about the local plants such as Bone-Breaker (Bog Asphodel), once believed that it caused brittle bones in livestock if they chose to eat it. I picked up some Wild Thyme and Pineapple Weed to make a delicious brew for myself in the evening.

In passing we observed an oak tree adorned with a green Oak Gall still home to gall wasp larvae.

Silhoutte’s of mountains and hills were either side of us now. It seemed somewhat familiar.

The rain started to ease and the sun broke through on and off for short periods of time.

My back was hurting now with every step now, dropping my backpack at every opportunity I could and trying to readjust the straps so it didn’t hang on my knobbled collar bones.

To me it felt like we were still a long way from finishing the hike, another 2 hours or so I thought, I was wrong.

I saw a long building that I recognized from the previous day. The South Wales Caving Club Centre which was right next to where I had parked my car. Really? We were that close to finishing?

I had a burst of energy, realising that I was going to make it as if there was a small feeling of doubt hidden away somewhere in my body. We then talked about how much we had enjoyed the trip, what wonderful things we had learnt from each other.

It was a wonderful experience. It challenged my human need to be comfortable all the time and yet I was just as comfortable walking in the wild.

Nia and Bec made the experience even more pleasurable with their kindness, good nature and ability to talk about every topic under the sun. Even the mountains must have heard our amusing thoughts and laughter.